faulty.lee

Here is some sample code as what Jeigh had suggested. The only thing you need to take note of is that mod only works for integer, so you need to scale up the currency by 100, then scale down laterDim total, amount As Decimal amount = Me.amount.Text total = Me.total.Text.Trim("$") total = total + amount Me.total.Text = "$" + total.ToString Dim offset, value, temp, result As Decimal offset = 0.05 * 100 'Scale Up value = Me.total.Text.Trim("$") * 100 'Scale Up temp = value Mod offset 'To Get the remainder result = value - temp If temp > 3 Then 'Pick a value to round up result += 1 End If result = result /100 ' Remember to scale back Label1.Text = "$" + result.ToStringThat should do it. I didn't code it in visual studio, if you see syntax error, you should know what to do. The concept is there. Good Luck

That's usually because of the degauss circuit, which kick in when the monitor first power up. Degaussing is to remove magnetic field that stuck to the metal mesh in the tube, which will cause some funny coloring to appear on the screen if not done. Degaussing require quite a huge amount of current for a very short while, so UPS will treat that as overload. Some newer monitor will continue to provide degaussing even after a long usage, and when you turn it off and on again, that you can't use on the UPS. Older model which depend on the PTC resistor, will not be able to degauss a second time without cooling down. If that's the one, you can use it on the UPS, unless you keep your monitor off most of the time.

Jimmy, thanks for the feedback.

Did it works well in service mode? Even left at the welcome or login screen for the server pc.

The wet cell is actually lead acid battery, aka car battery. They hold plenty of AH, so it can last a very long time. They're also more expensive. Normally bank or cooperates use it. Dry cell is sealed lead acid, they're not actually dry, it's just that they use gel instead of liquid electrolyte. The life span is only about a year or 2. You can just open up the UPS and replace the battery. You can get one in electrical shop easily. Not those that sell consumer electronics, go to those that sell lamp, switches or alarm. They normally use this battery for emergency lamp, home alarm backup and so on. Here, i can get it around RM30 to 70 a piece, bout $10~$20.

I'm not that sure of RealVNC, but tightVNC, require 2 colon, as in 192.168.10.1::5902, cause it's [ip]:[display]:[port]. But the error looks like firewall or router forwarding problem. Also, i found out that service mode don't usually work as expected. Maybe you should try to use non service mode first, and see if it works. For service mode to works properly, i think (just plain guessing) it need WinXP Pro, cause it failed when i tried on WinXP Home. Good Luck

There's 3 things you can try, non of them belongs to static route.1. Set a permanent DNS in the DNS setting of wireless NIC and set the gateway of both NIC to your router's IP2. Bridge the connection of both your NIC. You can select the 2 NIC, then right click, Bridge Connection. That way, you only need to set 1 IP address for the bridged connection. So, both your NIC will have the same IP, and that should help fix the issue, also it will automatically routes internet on your laptop(if i'm not mistaken, as i have tried the same thing before, quite sometime back)3. Setup internet sharing, to share your internet to your laptop. That way, windows might figure out which NIC is actually connected to the internet.Let me know if any of that works. I seldom play with networking lately, will be good to refresh my theory a bit.Good Luck

Bluetooth 2.0 can do better than that. I've achieve 100kbps on bluetooth 1.0's file transfer before.

If you're looking for software to manage MySQL database, for web based database server, you can use phpmyadmin, https://www.phpmyadmin.net/. For windows based, you can try SQLYog Community Edition https://www.webyog.com/. There's another DBA available for wide range of platforms, but these 2 are my favorites.

There's 2 things you can try. 1. Inside uTorrent's Preferences, under BitTorrent, you will see settings for Number of connections, try lower those. This is mostly due to the fact that the number of connection allocated is limited, thus, when your DAP is not using those connection, uTorrent will grab those until it hit the Global maximum number of connections. Same thing happen to me here, my limitation is my router. It hang if i have both uTorrent and eMule running. Or unless i resort to lower the max connections. Try to experiment and see which figure is just nice. Btw, when your DAP get timeout, i bet your browser will also face the same problem. 2. M$ tries to do something nice and limit the number of TCP connection available to us, as a prevention of wide spreading of worms. But in actual fact, it didn't help at all, but render it's user helpless. Well, if you're using p2p programs, be it emule, torrent, or any others which i didn't keep track of, look under your Event Viewer, you should see some warning stating that you have reach the limit of your TCP connection. That's what M$ is trying to limit us. To fix that, goto http://www.lvllord.de/ and download the patch for the TCPIP.SYS. For more info you can read http://www.lvllord.de/?lang=en&url=4226patch/faq. The default limit is 10 connection per second. Normally i put 50. You can try the 2nd one, then slowing decreasing the max connection setting until you get it working right for both DAP and uTorrent Good Luck

I'm not that good with C++ either. But one tool you can try, Xenocode Postbuilt. It can embed .Net Framework into the exe, so the target machine doesn't need to have .net installed. Maybe you can try that, then you won't need to port it to C++, which might double the work, and double the bugs as well. I've been using Xenocode to obfuscate my .net assembly, but never got a chance to use the embedded framework though, cause it require .net v2.0, but i'm mainly still using v1.1. I see that you're using VS2005, so most likely you're using .net v2.0, so you can give it a shot. http://forums.xisto.com/no_longer_exists/

Can you elaborate a bit more? Maybe use steps 1,2,3 to explain do you actually want. And also how you want the password to be prompted? HTML?

Yes, trickle charge will degrades the battery over time. But you need your UPS to be ready 24/7. What if the blackout happen when your battery only have 25% of it's power, that mean you only have 1 to 2 min to save your files and shutdown. If you're at a middle of editing a huge file or project, it will take longer than that to save and close the app. Even if you have save the file, the OS might still store the lastest changes in the ram, queuing to flush the cache. Blackout that happen when the OS is writting to the harddisk can corrupt the file, it happened to my customerS, which it ended up very costly, well, it's a good chance to persuade them to buy an UPS. Jimmy89, those UPS that comes with software control are quite expensive, generally it's mend for cooperates customers. Actually it's not the software that does the work. The UPS simply has an serial(COM) or USB port, which you can plug into your PC. Windows will recognize it and even show the battery level. From there, you can configure what to do in the event of power blackout, more or less like those we see on laptops. A good thing to have actually, if you can afford it. Cause it might blackout when you went for a tea or something.

I need to clarify a bit on this. A surge actually means a sudden change in voltage or a spike in the power supply, including lighting strike(not a direct strike, but in cases which it affect the power supply). Usually in terms of microsecond to milisecond. Power supply here, i refer to the power transmission or simply the power socket. So, for this, you'll need a surge protector. A surge protector generally only protect when the voltage goes higher than expected, cause that is more damaging. With most PC and monitor using switching power supply(in the equipment) , it can handle various voltage fluctuation from 90 to 240 volt, as long as it's within 240, maximum. Some PC power supply can only handle +/- 30 volt of fluctuation, from the set point. To counter voltage fluctuation, you'll need a voltage stabilizer. It regulate the voltage to within the expected voltage, to reduce damage or unexpected behavior from the equipment. Where as UPS, is to provide power when there's a blackout, or when the supply is below an unusable voltage. Nowadays, most UPS comes inclusive of surge protector and voltage stabilizer. If your area always have lightning strike, then it's better to get a separate surge protector, cause lightning surge is not covered by warranty, so it's better to change the surge protector rather than a new UPS, which is few times or even up to 10 times the price. I've use PK long time ago, which is very good. If i were to buy another one. I'll go for PK. The length of time you can operate, it's dependent on the battery inside. The capacity is specified by Ah(Ampere hour). The maximum power of which the UPS can supply is Watt or VA(Voltage Ampere). Watt = VA in terms of calculation. Say you have a PC which is 300Watt, and a monitor of 150Watt. So your total power requirement is 450Watt. a 500Watt(VA) UPS will do. If your power requirement is more than that, the overload LED will lit up on the UPS. Now come to the on time. For a normal UPS, the battery is usually seal lead acid type, with about 12V 7Ah. With 7Ah, meaning you can drain 7A for 1 hour, or drain 1A for 7 hours. So, with 450W, and a supply voltage of 240V. You'll need to workout the current drain at the battery. Supply = 240V Power = 450W Battery = 12V Battery's current = 450W / 12V = 37.5A (Assuming 100% efficiency) At 37.5A, 7Ah will give out On Time = 7Ah/37.5A = 0.1867Hour = 11 Minute 12 Second With 80% efficiency, you get around 9Minutes And also keep in mind that the battery degrades over time, so the On Time is getting shorter and shorter. So it's safer to shutdown within 4 Minute. As for charging, it's not safe to charge at that high of the current. Usually charging is recommended at C/10, at most C/1. C is the Ah. So maximum charging current is 7A in this case, and it will takes 1 hour to fully charge, again assuming 100% efficiency. It it's charge at C/10, 0.7A, then it will takes 10 hours to fully charge the battery. After full charge, trickle charge is applied to maintain the battery to full capacity, and to over come self discharge. You want your UPS to be ready 24/7. If you want longer On Time. Look for bigger one with higher Ah. Some for cooperate use type, can be connected to car battery. The smallest car battery is 50Ah, which in the above scenario it'll have 1 Hour 20 Minute of On Time. But it will need a day or 2 to fully charge it. Or you can bring it to some car workshop to have it charge. Here it's only 2 dollar. Most hawker do that, can use the battery to power lights and fan at night at the stall. One thing to take note, don't power any inductive loads with the UPS, this includes motor and solenoid driven equipment. Like fan, drill, electric stapler, fluorescent lamp(yes, it has an inductor in it) and so on. The AC supply produce by UPS is not 100% sine wave as per those produce by the power station, so it will have unexpected result, or even damaging effect when use on inductive loads. You'll see that the same rules applies to electronic dimmer. Hope that's enough of info. Anything else just let me know, I'll try my best to explain. Regards

You didn't mention about what programming language you're using. And i never since a windows that mention you don't have a legal version. I do see auto close windows for AVG auto update. Generally, for windows, you can just start a timer with 1 second interval, along when you popup the windows, then update the the button showing a countdown on the button's text, on every tick of the timer. Keep static counter or a class wise variable for that purpose. When the counter tick to 0, close the window

I think you should confirm that the motherboard is 100% working, before you order your battery, else it will end up in the junk box,

Then see if the same thing applies, wait 30min to 1 hour as before, with the adaptor in, but no battery, and then try to on again.

Seems like a battery problem. Can you try turn on the laptop without the battery in.Your problem, could be that, the battery cannot store another more charge, and self discharge too fast, that the voltage falls to zero. So, when you start to charge it, the charging circuit will use the failsafe method, a.k.a low current mode, in avoid a sudden surge of current which might heat up the battery and cause fire hazard. Taking out the battery will avoid this problem, provided your laptop allows powering up just from the adaptor alone(normally yes). If that works well, then you might wanna consider changing the battery. It's not recommended to run the laptop without the battery for a prolong period.For an old battery, the indicator is always on the high side. The capacity of the battery degrades through time. So, it will give a false reading. You can try run the battery calibration, in the bios if you laptop have one. It will adjust the reading to fit the current capacity of the battery.Good luck

Well, i think it's a good way to shake microsoft's feet. If you look at this page by Scott Hanselman http://www.hanselman.com/blog/ featuring a video of some benchmark done to compare the performance of the 4 popular window's browser, including safari. It shows that safari is rather quite fast, fastest in most cases. That actually prove that, even IE having written by microsoft, also can't do as good as a third party, further more it's rival. Way to go Apple !!!

Well, overclocking via software is quite common, and even my old MSI mobo since 2004 can do that. I think it's the matter of whether the manufacturer wants to put in or not.

Cool. Need to update my knowledge base now. But with this feature, it might seems a bit dangerous, as it flashes your bios whenever you change the settings. Hmm.....

Wow, that's something new. Do you mind to post a screen shot here or take a picture with a cam? It would be nice to have a look, cause seldom get to see abit NF7 board here. Thanks

Actually, when you save the setting in your BIOS, it's not flashed into the flash memory. 1. Flash can only be written 0. To write a new value, you need to erase it. After erasure, each bit is 1. If you write a 1 to a bit holding 0, it remains as 0 2. Flash require block erase. So you cannot just erase 1 byte, and write a new value into it, unlike eeprom 3. Almost all mobo keep the setting in the battery backed sram, either dedicated chip, or in the south bridge. That's why after you take out the battery, all your settings goes back to default 4. unless new mobo is using eeprom, which i might not aware of. So far point 3 is till valid. And chances for manufacturer to use eeprom is quite unlikely, cause in case a wrong setting prevented you to boot properly, you're stuck forever, or wait 40 years for the eeprom to loose it's memory, by chance . Where as battery backed sram, all you need to do is to pull out the battery.

Other than that, make sure nothing unusual happen, like power blackout, or some kids strip over your power cable and things like that. On top of that, there's still minor risk involved. So far i've flashed a few mobo without any problem. It would be better if your mobo still within warranty, that way it's safe to play around. If it really fail, some mobo is cable falling back to the basic bios to do a minimal boot up, so you can flash again using floppyGood Luck

There's actually a place to mount the fan in front, at the bottom of the face plate usually. The air intake there isn't that obvious. You can always monitor the temperature before deciding to add more fan or not. That way, at least you'll know if the added fan does help to cool down the components in your casing. If the fan's placement is not done properly, it might not help at all. Try speedfan http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php, it can monitor the temperature of your harddisk, cpu, motherboard and fan speed as well. You can turn the chart, so to see the temperature trend. To achieve a consistent result, you can try to stress your cpu to 100% for a longer period, that way, you're sure that when you do so, your fan can really take care of the temperature. Try running 3DMark, Burn-in-test, prime95 or what ever software that can keep the cpu busy. Good luck