moldboy 0 Report post Posted August 22, 2005 When you taks a series of images to stich to make a panorama you stand in one spot and spin, that way the perspective is the same, but what if you wanted to take a picture of say a city street where you couldn't simply stand in one spot, how might one make a long panorama then? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
serverph 0 Report post Posted August 22, 2005 perhaps you can setup a rolling tripod (camera tripod with wheels). then roll that across the street, clicking pics along the way, in calculated even distances. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moldboy 0 Report post Posted August 22, 2005 I supose I didn't quite finish my question. perhaps you can setup a rolling tripod (camera tripod with wheels). smile.gif then roll that across the street, clicking pics along the way, in calculated even distances.That is what I planned to do, however when you walk down a street and look at it you see the building right in front head on (only the door and windows) however the rest of the building in your view you can see the side of them, but when you move to the front you don't see the side anymore, so if I were to even take two pictures they would both have the side views and the front views of each buildings now how di I stich that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuffaloHelp 24 Report post Posted August 23, 2005 If you are asking how to stitch two or more photos together to create a panoramic view, I would suggest getting a photo stitching program. I searched http://download.cnet.com/windows/ and searching using "panorama" and got these results. Click this link to see. http://download.cnet.com/windows/?qx=19&search.y=6You can try those programs and see if you like them before you venture out and investing. The good rule of thumb for taking, what soon to be a panorama photograph, is always overlapping your photograph by 1/3. In another words, always take your photo in the same setting (not in automatic because your AWB will screw up the brightness and colors, but that too can be fixed as well) using either Tv, Av, or Manual and overlap the previous scene with the current scene by 1/3. This is also known as part of two-thirds rule. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moldboy 0 Report post Posted August 23, 2005 Perhapse I still didn't explain, all those programs rely on one thing, aside from the 1/3 overlap, that is that the actual position of the camera doesn't move, however I want to take a picture that is longer the what rotating on one spot can accomplish, like I said a street. But when I do there is the perspective of the building to take into account, when you look a a building head on you see no side, when you swivel a camera on one spot you still don't see the side of the building, however when you start moving parallel to the face of the building you can see the sides and they present a difficulity in stiching, as it doesn't line up anymore. I wouldn't expect to find a program that would do it, just advice as to how to get around the building perspective. It may be easier then I think and I'm just not thinking right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuffaloHelp 24 Report post Posted August 23, 2005 Well, don't be too short giving a credit to these software. These days, a photo stitching program progressed so much that it will know what to do. When the company I work for sent Photo Stitch (included in every Canon printers) it was amazing! So give it a shot before you cancel out the idea. Photographs are weird things. They are the representation of what you see but never the same perspective--the exact effect you described (called the vanishing points and linear lines). The only way to accommodate what you are trying to achieve is to have a very wide angle lens for your camera. Since your eyes are stereo--3 dimensional perception--you will never capture the same effect with a single lens--2 dimensional equipment. The photographers I work with have invested in two different types of wide angled lenses--very wide (a.k.a. super wide) and fish-eye (a.k.a. dome). I'm going to include a quick sketch to show different ways of capturing the possible solution. Figure 1 Figure 2 The point facing down in green triangle is where you might position your camera, moving parallel to the scene you are photographing. As you can see that the second figure shows the area it will cover as the result of using a wider lens. And this will minimize the distortion of the said perspective when stitching them together. It will be easier when stitching the photos together, also. There are other lenses called, Tilt-shift where it will not show any vanishing point distortion caused by your point of view, but they are in the ranges of $1000 each. Note that I did not include the 1/3 rule to demonstrate without confusing the effect. Post your question further if this is not what you are expecting. And if you can, please be more descriptive and post perhaps with a quick drawing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites