tansqrx

I hope I never get to the point where I have to put restrictions on my access point but if I do, I still have the tools to do it. The main Linux router has Astaro (https://www.sophos.com/en-us/products/unified-threat-management.aspx) installed so I can limit the wireless network any way I need to. This is usually not possible with the comity home routers but I can control the type, amount, and time window of bandwidth. If anyone else is interested, Astaro is free for home use and just needs two network adaptors on a discarded (but working) spare computer (https://www.sophos.com/en-us/products/unified-threat-management.aspx).

That has got to be one of the craziest things that I have ever seen and I have done some serious crazy/stupid things in my life!

Referring to the original question, the Graduate Record Examination (GRE) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graduate_Record_Examination) is not needed for an undergraduate bachelorâs degree application. By definition, the GRE is only used only for graduate level applications.I donât know if this is a serious question or not but from the post there are serious grammar problems with your writing. The GRE is like a SAT or ACT for graduate applications but harder. The biggest difference is a critical writing section that is not multiple choice and must be written by the student during the exam. This section is graded by a human and thus must be of a certain quality to pass. Depending on what type of graduate degree you are after, not all sections will usually be considered equally. For example, if you are applying for an engineering degree, the critical writing section may not be as important as the quantitative section.Not trying to be mean here but if you submit anything close to your original post on the GRE exam, you will not pass no matter what kind of degree you want. This is atrocious even for an engineering student.

And of course the always interesting Slashdot thread. https://science.slashdot.org/story/11/01/06irport?from=rss

I believe this may be what you are looking for.“Tampa runway reopens, reflects shift in magnetic north pole” (http://forums.xisto.com/no_longer_exists/)

From what I can see YouTube is nowhere close to dying.YouTube has always had copyright problems and this was one of the big issues that Google had with the company before they bought them. In the end YouTube is still safe from being taken down because they have a DMCA safe harbor provision (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Millennium_Copyright_Act). As long as they provide a means for copyright holders to request a take-down, and do so in a timely manner, YouTube and Google cannot be held liable (http://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/2007/05/google-cites-safe-harbor-fair-use-in-viacom-v-youtube-defense/). The perceived problem comes from the copyright holders getting trigger happy with fair use (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_use) and even videos they donât hold copyright to. Additionally YouTube has automated all of this work and a human doesnât make the final decision.Does a 9 year old girl singing the latest pop song in her living room constitute a copyright violation or is it fair use? Is a video with the radio playing in the background also a copyright violation? Though questions these are.I remember a TWIT episode (twit.tv) this past year that was pulled down. TWIT is a geek news show and podcast that talks about the current technology events. One of the guests on this show, Baratunde Thurston (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baratunde_Thurston) (donât know the episode) also worked for The Onion (http://www.theonion.com/). They were discussing a clip from The Onion website which was both news and a promotion for The Onion. The next week the host was complaining that the show was taken down by YouTube because of this 30 second clip from The Onion. Over the subsequent weeks the audience found out that the episode was taken down because of an automated DMCA notice. The Onion didnât file the complaint and was actually pissed that some of its content was taken down without its permission. I believe the episode was eventually put back up on YouTube but this shows you that some copyright law is just plain broken. The Onion clip was a clear example of fair use because it was part of a news item and even if it wasnât the copyright holder didnât want it taken down.

Here is a story to add to the conversation: âAmazon Cloud Power Used To Break Network Passwordsâ (http://forums.xisto.com/no_longer_exists/). Thomas Roth, a security researcher, used Amazonâs Elastic Cloud Computing (EC2) service to brute force wireless passwords. The EC2 service is basically a supercomputer that you can rent for 28 cents a minute. Rothâs average cost was $2 per password. Any wireless protocol (including WPA-PSK) that uses a pre-shared key is open to attack. Apparently this attack can only find matches based on a dictionary list.So back to the original question of WEP Vs WPA? I choose neither for my home network and decided to run completely unencrypted. Anyone can connect and the access point ID is âOPENâ. I didnât do this out of laziness but out of an informed discussion to be nice to my neighbors.I live in a fairly rural area were maybe 5-6 people can even see my wireless connection. I trust most of my neighbors and I have weighed the discussion to be open with being secure. This doesnât mean that all my banking information and such is open to anyone walking or driving by. Being nice to my neighbor doesnât mean being stupid either. I have been in several situations where I needed Internet access away from home and occasionally I get lucky and find an open access point. The access points in question may or may not be left open on purpose but I am still grateful to find one. Perhaps I can be nice to someone else in their time of need.I have setup my network in a very particular way as to offer open wireless and still keep myself safe. All of my internal computers are hardwired 1 Gbit Ethernet so there is no need for wireless. The wireless network is segregated behind two routers not including the main Linux router that feeds from my ISP connection. The two routers are in series which prevents APR spoofing onto my hardwired network as ARP does not pass through a router. There are some tricks to get past one router but to my knowledge there is no way to play ARP games with two routers. Secondly, both the wireless and hardwired internal network has the same subnet addresses. This means that even if someone on the wireless knew an internal IP address, it would route to the wireless subnet and never make it past the first router. As a finishing touch, the main Linux router has some nasty rules in place to prevent ANY traffic from passing from the internal to the wireless network and vice versa.The only time I ever use the wireless network is if someone visits my house and needs to use the Internet. If they want to access any of my internal computers or the network printer then I have to tell them to get out their Ethernet cable because it simply isnât possible from the wireless network. I do realize that some bad things can happen on an open wireless access point but I am willing to take the chance and fight the fight if needed. If laws are broken then it is up to the person breaking the law to go to jail and not me. The law is certainly still in flux on this matter but I will fight for my right to provide an open access point if needed.There are currently several organizations with the goal of providing free wireless to anyone who wants it (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_community_network) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_wireless_community_networks_by_region). These groups usually just make their current access point open with perhaps a customized login screen or user agreement. There is no such group in my area and I donât see it as being very practical given my rural location. If something does come along I may make my wireless niceness a little more formal.

Can you explain what you mean by the older platters being brownish? This is a personal story which makes me wonder what you mean. When I was a child I used to walk to my grandparents house across the road. They were somewhat of packrats and had all kinds of weird things hung up all around their property. I remember always seeing this silver, flat disk about a foot in diameter, with an inch hole in it hanging on a barn wall. There wasnât just one but many of them all over the place and they had been there for as long as I can remember. I must have been 8 or 9 at the time and asked my father what they were and he told me computer parts. Since this was the late 1980âs and I only recently learned what a computer was I thought this was really weird especially since my grandfather had nothing to do with computers and was essentially just a retired farmer. Over the years I never asked any questions until I saw a picture of an early hard drive in college. It had huge platters and I instantly remembered the silver plate on the side of the barn. This is when everything snapped together. Over the years I remember my parents mentioning that my grandfather used to work at Sperry Corporation and he would always bring home damaged parts. I guess my father was right and it really was part of a computer. My question is how early were the brown platters? I still have one of those big hard drive platters at my momâs house and it isnât brown but looks exactly like a modern silver hard drive but ten time bigger and thicker. I know it has to be from at least the late 1970âs if not earlier. Are you talking about the 1960âs era platters or something entirely different?

My apologies to yordon for restating what he already said but I will put part of his response in a different context.The ntldr error message can usually be fixed by running the Windows repair utility located on the Windows install disk. Every version of Windows is different so I will outline the general process.1. Insert the Windows installation disk into your CD or DVD drive.2. You may have to change your BIOS settings if the disk does not run after turning the computer on. This is usually accomplished by setting the first boot device to the CD/DVD or hitting one of the “F” keys during startup. In my case it is F12.3. A screen appears for a few seconds telling you to “Press any key to boot from CD.” As the instruction suggests, you should press a key.4. For Windows XP and earlier, wait for all of the setup files to load and then press “R” for your bad Windows install (http://michaelstevenstech.com/XPrepairinstall.htm).5. For Vista and Windows 7, wait for the first screen to appear and then select “Startup repair” (https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/products/windows).In both cases setup will overwrite all of the critical system files (including ntldr) with the ones on the setup disk. If this fails you can also try to reinstall Windows. Make sure you don’t format the drive and place the install in the same location as the damages install.I have successfully used both methods to repair fatal Windows problems including missing ntldr. If you didn’t do anything to explicitly kill your ntldr then you should seriously look at replacing your hard drive. Unexpected ntldr errors usually result from corrupted hard drive sectors and where there is one bad hard drive sector, there are usually many. The hard drive recovery tool that I use is SpinRite (https://www.grc.com/spinrite.htm) but it isn’t free. SpinRite can usually fix the problem without repairing the Windows installation. Certainly run a check disk (https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/2641432) after you get your computer back up and running.

If you want to go really old school then Windows users can access the built-in FTP client in any DOS window (http://www.nsftools.com/tips/MSFTP.htm). I don’t recommend this because you will pull your hair out after typing the first 100 commands.As mentioned earlier, Filezilla (https://filezilla-project.org/) is not only the best but also a free way to get a FTP client. There is also a Filezilla server that is free.

I believe the question of using mobile phone templates solely depends on your audience and the purpose of the site. I personally have no plans to make my site mobile friendly. My site (ycoderscookbook.com) has low traffic and I make no money off of it. Additionally, my content is geared towards Microsoft Windows programming so I don’t expect many mobile users to find my useful unless they are viewing it from a Windows desktop or laptop.Designing for mobile devices may also cause some problems that you may not expect. I occasionally use a Blackberry phone to visit websites. The Blackberry has a full featured browser that will display almost everything except Flash. The Blackberry can display CSS and JavaScript just fine in most case. The problem that I have run into is that some sites see my Blackberry browser as a mobile device and serve me the no feature, stripped down, and mostly useless mobile version of their page. This irritates me to no end because I do have the power to view the regular page. In most cases there isn’t even an option to visit the full site. I then leave the page mad and never go back so instead of gaining a mobile customer, they are loosing it.I also think mik isn’t living in the real world with his comments. Adding functionality to a website (such as adding mobile support) takes time and manpower. Time and manpower cost money. I face the same problem all the time at my job where I sometimes estimate software development costs. The customer rarely realizes how much effort goes into creating a single function or feature. When the average productivity for a programmer is between 1-3 source lines of code (SLOC) per hour, the cost for adding a feature that is 100 SLOC really adds up. It is a common practice in software engineering to make the customer sign a contract after the requirements are set. This is to protect the developer from the customer when the customer comes back six months later asking for a “minor” feature to be added. My company then pulls out the contract and explains how they agreed to a particular price for the given requirements; if you want the minor feature then you will have to sign another contract and pay us more money.I’m not familiar with professional webpage design pricing so I don’t know if $8000 is high or low but think of it from an engineering point-of-view. Suppose you have 10,000 mobile visitors a day visit your website and you earn 1/10 of a cent ($0.001) off of each customer (personally high in my opinion but makes for easy math). Then say it costs $8000 to add mobile support to your site. It will take 800 days or a little over 2 years to make any profit off of the new mobile additions. If you change your webpage more than every two years, you may actually be loosing money by creating mobile pages.Most everyone at Xisto creates their own pages because after all this is a free hosting site. When the practical cost of adding mobile support for Xisto users is not money but time, the user will have to decide if the time spent is worth it. I still disagree with mik because my time is worth something and it is not sloppy or “not doing your job properly” if I decide not to add mobile or other browser support. With my busy life I get very little precious time to devote to my hobby and I would much rather create content than write hundreds of CSS files for each browser and mobile profile.

As of this weekend there are several websites that are effectively blocked in the US by altering the DNS records. An article in CNETâs Threat Level entitled âU.S. Shutters 82 Sites in Crackdown on Downloads, Counterfeit Goodsâ (https://www.wired.com/2010/11/us-website-takedowns/) reports that the US Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) Agency has taken several counterfeit goods and torrent sites down. This is the second round of seizures which targets copyright and counterfeit websites.

Hate to break it to you Rathe, but what you are doing right now is also illegal, at least in a civil court. The least that could happen is your bots will get banned from the service. The most at this point is a civil fine that could be in the thousands of dollars. The problem is the government might be able to also throw you in jail.I don’t agree with the laws either but they are still on the books in the US, like it or not. Most everyone will agree that US laws also have a far reaching impact. Even if you live in Russia.

I’ve had the same problems (not the sub domains though) in the past. I found that implementing a CAPTCHA or updating to the latest version of WordPress solves the problem. Most SPAM usually occurs after a WordPress update which I haven’t had time to update my site.Looks like your site has been added to a SPAM list so from now on you will have periods of Whac-A-Mole the spammer. Hang in there because after a few months of not getting an SPAM through, they usually disappear. Unfortunately this is only temporary because a different spammer will try the same thing at a later date and you will have to do the same thing to them.P.S. Check all of your permission settings and administrative PHP scripts just to make sure they don’t have a backdoor in them. There are several websites that can scan your site for security holes but just be careful who you trust.

I hate to tell you but I think Google is the best way to go. There are several search engine scripts that you can download and run on your server but they donât compare to the power of Google. The scripts that I have seen can only be run manually so you will have to rebuild the index every time you make a change to your site. Indexing is also very resource intensive so many hosts do not take kindly to them.There are also several professional scripts that will cost you. The ones that I have seen are usually in the neighborhood of $1000. You can also buy third-party indexing servers or Google servers (https://www.google.de/work/search/products/gsa.html) to do your searching.I may be completely wrong in this so feel free to correct me.

I personally use WordPress (wordpress.org) for my website blog (http://forums.xisto.com/no_longer_exists/). Read the installation instructions thoroughly before you install and you shouldn’t have any problems. Xisto provides all of the databases and resources needed so you will not have to contact Xisto - Support at all. I have installed WordPress in a folder called “blog” in my main HTML folder as shown in the “/blog/” extension of the web address. You will be instructed to download the WordPress package to your own machine, extract it, and then load it onto your Xisto server (usually FTP). The instructions will tell you what address to use to access the setup page. Follow the setup wizard instructions, delete anything it tells you to, and your done.The hardest part for me was to create a template that fit in with the existing website style. I have a custom navigation bar at the top of the page and a custom footer that shows up on every page that had to be recreated for the WordPress template. I also changed the layout, fonts, and colors in the PHP and CSS files to make the template have the same look and feel as the other parts of my site. I started out with the default template and made extensive changes. Another option is to use one of the many free WordPress templates made by others and then customize them. I found the CSS and PHP to be fairly straightforward to customize but it will still take several hours to create something unique if you are not well versed in CSS or PHP.

I believe your concerns were addressed in the second paragraph, lol. I've never had the chance to take the platters apart. The only time I really tried, the platters were made out of silicon and shattered almost instantly.

The real problem with any of these contact methods is SPAM. I have both email and Yahoo! messenger links on my site and SPAM has been a big problem in the past. My current solution to email is to forward mail from my Xisto domain to my Hotmail account. Microsoft does a lot of SPAM filtering so almost all of the SPAM is killed before I see it. Before I started using Hotmail as a filter, it wasn’t unusual to get several hundred SPAM messages a day. Another strategy that I have considered is to create a new semi-random email address every few months or so and use that as a contact email address. This is how the bad guys get your email address in the first place. Spammers use search crawlers similar to the Google crawler to scan webpages and forums for email and any other useful addresses. Since my site, and therefore my contact email address, is publically accessible, it is easy to grab my website email address. The email address is then put into a database which can contain millions of addresses. The spammer then uses this database to directly send SPAM or he can sell it to other spammers for a premium price. The process of crawling for emails is usually not a fast one so changing your site email every few months should significantly reduce SPAM. If you ever noticed that you never got SPAM on a new address until a few months, this works on the same principal. The second contact method that I use is Yahoo! Messenger. I don’t publish my actual Yahoo! handle, but rather insert a mini Yahoo! Messenger chat script from Yahoo! This lets visitors see if you are online and if so, chat with you on the webpage without need to start their own Yahoo! Messenger client or even have Yahoo! Messenger installed at all. The official Yahoo! Messenger HTML plug-in can be found on the Yahoo! Messenger website, https://messenger.yahoo.com/. Perhaps the biggest question is how much contact information you want to revel on your website. I opinion is as little as possible. Even at this, only use a separate or disposable email or Yahoo! account that is in no way connected to your mail account. This is a must as the bad guys not only want to SPAM you but also may want to steal your account or even worse. I had a separate account for my website at the time, but this really hit home when some unknown party broke into my website email and then started sending SPAM. Nothing of value was lost but my account was sending SPAM and phishing messages to hundreds of other users a day. I assume they used a brute force password attack so I changed the account password to something much stronger and the problem stopped. Bottom line is that you shouldn’t publish any information on your site that you don’t want to be archived forever or anyone else to see. Don’t use your main email account and remember that you have now voluntarily entered yourself into a war between “us” and “them.”

Special Tool Method Needed: proper screw head tool, handheld power drill (may be optional) You may notice that the hard drive screws are not simple straight or Phillips head screws. For that fact, they are usually not common hex or Torx head screws. This is just another way of keeping you out of the drive and voiding your warranty. The screws on this particular hard drive are size 8 Torx head screws as shown in Figure 11 â Torx (T8) Bit. Figure 11 â Torx (T8) Bit Torx (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx) bits are fairly common and have a star pattern at their end. You can go to most hardware stores and get T10, T15, T20, and T25 size Torx screw drivers or bit but anything smaller than T10 is rare. Figure 12 - Security Bit Case Figure 13 - Security Bits Just so happens I had a T8 bit in a security bit collection as shown in Figure 12 - Security Bit Case and Figure 13 - Security Bits. I picked this security bit set up from Harbor Freight (http://forums.xisto.com/no_longer_exists/) some time ago because I saw the value of having it around and knew I would need it latter. Other bits in this set are of interest to computer users as it also has Torx security bits which are sometimes seen on the back of computer cases. The most notable example of this is old Packard Bell cases which would not let you open them without a secret (security Torx) bit. Having this security bit set may not be enough for your particular hard drive. The last Western Digital drive that I opened had a metric hex cap that I could not find a match for. I have several standard and metric Allen wrenches but never found the right size. If you canât find a bit then you will have to fall back to the drill bit method above. With any of the above methods you may have to use a knife to cut additional tape or labels as shown in Figure 14 - Cut Additional Tape. In my case there was some aluminum tape above the IDE connector that I needed to cut. Figure 14 - Cut Additional Tape Inside the Drive Once you have the hard drive cover off you will notice something similar to Figure 15 - Hard Drive Cover Off. Figure 15 - Hard Drive Cover Off Traditional hard drives (not flash drives) have a rotating disk on a spindle called the platter. The platter spins at a constant speed, usually 7200 RPM. There may be more than one platter for different capacities and models. An arm extends over the platter which is called the head and at the end of the arm is the pickup that reads the data. Hard drives work similar to a record player but he âgroovesâ are too small to see and the needle can go anywhere. The head needs to move very fast so powerful magnets acts as a linear actuator at the opposite end of the arm. Figure 16 - Hard Drive Components You should notice that traditional hard drives are mechanical in nature and as such have a mechanical delay reading data. If one read access data on the very inner part of the platter and then the next read is on the far outside of the platter, there will be a delay because the arm has to move from the inside to the outside of the platter. This is what makes the characteristic clicking sound when a hard drive is in use. Also because we are dealing with a mechanical device, you should expect mechanical failures. Just as you wouldnât expect the brakes on your car to last forever, you should expect a mechanical hard drive to last either. Figure 17 - Close-up of Magnet Figure 18 - Close-up of Platter If you would like to take the magnets out, place a flat head screwdriver under the magnets and pry them upwards as shown in Figure 19 - Taking the Magnets Out. Figure 19 - Taking the Magnets Out There is usually no clean way of taking the magnets out and you will break stuff getting them out. Hopefully this will give you enough information to at least attempt taking your hard drive apart. If you have a dead drive lying around and you have never done this, I would highly recommend it. Not only is it educational, you will get an appreciation to why traditional hard drives act the way they do. And ohh yea, you get a couple of really cool magnets too. P.S. Sorry for the two part post but there was an error returned the first time due to the number of images.

I have seen several posts on Xisto asking how to take an old hard drive apart. Your reasons for destroying a drive may vary. For instance you may just be curious or perhaps you are after the extremely powerful Neodymium (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neodymium_magnet) magnets inside. If you have never played with really strong magnets before, the process of getting the magnets out of the hard drive is worth it alone. As a standard note, the magnets really are strong and will attract each other at long distances. Smashing your fingers is not really a concern; the real concern is flying magnet shrapnel. The alloy that makes Neodymium magnets is brittle and pieces can fly off of the magnet if they are struck hard. Warning! Taking the cover off of your hard drive will certainly void any warranty and will most certainly kill the drive. Common dust in the air can wreck the drive if it gets between the head and platter. There have been several successful mods of hard drives to replace the cover with clear plastic but donât count on it working (http://www.grynx.com/projects/plexiglas-harddrive-window/) (http://www.ehow.com/tech/). I suggest only doing this on known dead hard drives. This article only covers traditional mechanical hard drives. The newer flash drives can be taken apart but there isnât anything cool in them. A few weeks ago I had a family member come to me to fix their dead Seagate external hard drive. They already removed it from the case but didnât have a SATA connector on their own computer. I hooked it up to my computer and started my work. After 15 minutes of working with the BIOS, which the BIOS would not even see the drive, I tried the last ditch effort of throwing the hard drive in the freezer. While the drive was chilling, I tried to explain the inner workings of a hard drive and why it would fail. The point was not getting across so I went to my spare parts stash and pulled out an old drive to dissect. The family memberâs drive sadly never did make it⦠Figure 1 - Hard Drive Top View Figure 2 - Hard Drive Bottom View Figure 3 - Hard Drive Side View Figure 1 - Hard Drive Top View, Figure 2 - Hard Drive Bottom View, and Figure 3 - Hard Drive Side View shows the hard drive before it has been opened. The victim in this case is an 80 GB Hitachi Deskstar. You may know it from its more common name of the âIBM Deathstarâ (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deskstar) of which I was the unlucky owner of several of these POSes. The cover of the drive (the shiny metallic surface with the sticker on it) can be taken off by removing the screws. In most cases the screwdriver needed to fit the screws will not be in your standard tool box. This leaves you with three options: screwdriver, drill bit, or special tool. Figure 4 - Screw Locations Figure 5 - Screw Locations Highlighted The first task is determining where the screws are. Figure 4 - Screw Locations show the obvious screws that have already been removed which are highlighted in Figure 5 - Screw Locations Highlighted. What you may miss the first time are the hidden screws. Figure 6 - Hidden Screw Holding the Cover Figure 6 - Hidden Screw Holding the Cover shows that even though all the visible screws have been taken out something is still holding the cover on. Figure 7 - Hidden Screw Location Highlighted Almost all hard drive manufacturers hide one or multiple screws in a location that makes it obvious the screw has been tampered with. The screws are usually under the paper label which has to be torn to revel the hidden screw. This prevents you from returning a hard drive that you opened first to take a look at. As stated previously, taking the cover off of your hard drive will void any warranty and this is one way the manufacturers can tell. A quick way of finding these screws is to feel across the label until you find an indention. Use your flat head screwdriver to peel back the label which will hopefully show the hidden screw. Keep looking until you have felt across all of the label or tape. Screwdriver Method Needed: flat blade screwdriver, hammer If you donât have anything other than a screw driver and hammer then this will be your only option. This is the least desirable of the three options as it will end up with the most damage to the drive. I donât have any pictures of this method because I have the tools and I didnât want to destroy the drive. Some drive platters are made of silicon or glass so any sharp blows my shatter the platter into hundreds of very sharp pieces so be careful. Take a flat head screwdriver and wedge it between the cover and the main hard drive body (the black part in my case). The cover and screws are usually made of a soft metal such as aluminum so they can be bent easily. If you have a hammer, tap the screwdriver until you get a good gap between the cover and the drive body. From here just use brute strength to either snap the screws or bend the cover enough that it tears. After the initial gap has been created, slide the screwdriver close to one of the screws and then exert force. Once one screw has been popped, move on to the next one until all the screws have been removed. Because of using a lot of force, there may be a fair amount of damage to the drive when you are finished. Drill Bit Method Needed: drill bit set, handheld power drill or a drill press Figure 8 - Drill Bit This a much better choice for removing the screws as it doesnât completely destroy the hard drive cover in the process. The downside is that it does require a few tools that should be in any household tool box. Figure 9 - Drill Bit in Drill First, select a drill bit that completely covers the screw head as shown in Figure 8 - Drill Bit. You want the bit to be slightly larger than the head but not too big as this will take some of the cover with the hole and make the cut harder. Next load the bit into your handheld power drill, shown in Figure 9 - Drill Bit in Drill. If you have a workshop then a drill press makes this much easier. Figure 10 - Drilling the Screw Head Off Position the bit directly over the screw head and start drilling as shown in Figure 10 - Drilling the Screw Head Off. The objective is to drill out only the screw head and not go any deeper. With the head gone, the cover can lift off of the peg that is left. Repeat for all visible and hidden screw heads. Using a drill bit to cut off a screw head is not limited to just hard drives. Any time you find yourself with a stuck screw you can use this method. I have used this for removing rivets to fixing a muffler bracket on my truck.

I can’t really say I have a favorite algorithm but I do have one that caused me much grief while in school. One of the first algorithms covered in my 200 level algorithms class were N-way trees. Perhaps the professor just explained them poorly or my brain just doesn’t think that way, but they were almost the end of me. We had to create a c program that implemented an N-way tree from scratch without any source code reference. The problems started to pile up when the tree had to be balanced if a new node or branch was added or removed. I ended up cutting up small pieces of paper and labeling them with node names and placing them on my kitchen counter. I would then step through the algorithm by rearranging the pieces of paper on the counter. It was the only way I could visualize the problem and I finally got a working program after many hours of working through the problem in my head.I am very glad that modern programming languages come with these basic algorithm already solved because understanding and implementing them from scratch can suck.

What programming language are you using now?.NET is a little more abstract and has more libraries for handling specific protocols. For instance, if you want to fetch a webpage or any HTTP link, use the HttpWebRequest class. For more fundamental socket tasks you would use the TcpClient class (https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/system.net.sockets.tcpclient.aspx) or TcpListener class (https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/system.net.sockets.tcplistener.aspx). There are also a few other options in the System.Net.Sockets namespace (https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/system.net.sockets.aspx).Client/server operations can get hairy really fast, especially on the server side, so I would recommend using something like HttpWebRequest if you can. The MSDN documentation actually provides good information on getting started so that’s the first place I would start. If you have a specific protocol or question I might be able to help you more.

The main issue still remains. If the operating system or software can access your known good back up, so can malware. Many malware packages today can access and change Windows restore points to infect them also. When to go back to restore from a “known good backup” you are reinfected because the backup also holds the malware.This is the same principal behind rootkits. There are checks to prevent programs from running at the operating system privileged level such as UAC controls. If for some reason the user allows malware access to privileged areas of the operating system, game over. The malware is now running at the same privilege level as the operating system and it also has the same power. This means that any “secure” mechanism for creating a backup is now no longer off limits to the malware. The only safe way to prevent this is to have a hardware switch which software has no means of controlling.There is even nasty stuff out there that can change the BIOS settings and even flash a new BIOS complete with malware if the BIOS allows software to access it from the operating system.

The biggest problem with the case is that the government wants to make breaking a terms of service (TOS) agreement into a crime punishable under the criminal and not the civil system. This would mean that if you have ever lied about your true name or perhaps age while registering on a site, you could go to jail. You are technically breaking the TOS by lying.Or maybe you made more than one account on Hotmail when the TOS said you could only have one account?The list is endless, especially if you have ever read any of those 100 page terms of service agreements. If the government can prove that you broke any part of the TOS, they can throw you in jail. As it stands now, breaking a TOS is a civil matter where you can be sued but you can’t be thrown in jail by the government. In my opinion, very scary stuff.

If I knew the answer to your question I would be the next Internet billionaire. Usually the next big thing is something that no one has even thought about yet.