Anyone Have Experience With Autocockers? (paintball)

[rayzoredge 2]

I own an '04 Prostock Autococker, and it's quite fun.However, I have a couple of questions:1.) The Prostock features a Delrin bolt, which supposedly does not need any lubricants of any kind. Kind of makes me iffy on that little factoid, as all moving parts should be lubed up. The catch to this is that supposedly if you do lube it up, the bolt swells and the marker will consequently have a hard time cycling. Anyone know what to do here?2.) I just played with this gun recently, and in one game the marker completely locked up on me. Trying to fire it would result in a failed hiss, the gun wouldn't cycle, and the bolt stayed put. I could NOT physically pull the bolt out on my attempt to field-strip. As a last resort, I tried to cycle it manually by pulling the bolt back, and after a COUPLE of times of doing this it started to fire normally. Did I just mess something up? Does this happen normally?3.) I was using field paint and the AC was chopping like mad. This is paint straight out of the box... RP Scherer Premium, which I believe is a medium bore. I thought I was short-stroking occasionally (which would be one common reason of double-feeding and chopping paint), which I was. However, on the chrono range, I dropped a round into the feed neck, fired my "ghost shot" and let the ball fall into the chamber, but on the end of the cycle, the front bolt tried to go forward and "pinched" the ball. What I mean is that the front bolt would not go forward all the way and stayed 1/8" behind of where it should have been, exposing the ball a bit. On firing again, the AC would chop the ball. Could this be a bad case of paint that obviously swelled up a bit? Or could it be that the bolt itself couldn't cycle forward all the way and not push the ball into the chamber area?4.) Do the regulators on ACs need a break-in period? I ask because I'm shooting nitrogen on a marker that has only been through two games, and the chronograph readings fluctuate with differences of 0-30 fps.Thanks for the help guys!

[t3jem 0]

Well, I use a spider vector, and I do chop paint alot, but i think it's the combination of cheap paint and a cheap gun that i don't take the best care of. As for my tipman, it's never chopped paint or jammed. I think alot of it has to do with how you treat your gun and how much it cost. The more expensive guns are more precise on measurements and won't chop as much. I'm not sure how much your gun is (i don't keep up on gun brands and stuff), but from what it sounds like is it might just be a cheap gun. If it is an expensive gun then I would get it checked out at the place you bought it or another paintball place.As for the oiling subject, I would ask the manufacturer to be dead sure they said not to oil it. If they do say not to oil it, then don't , it could jam the gun if something swells.I hope this was helpful.

[rayzoredge 2]

I figured that "AutoCocker" would imply that this is a high-end mechanical marker. It is definitely not a cheap gun... considering that it IS one of the AC's made before Orr sold out to whomever bought out WORR Games. When I bought it, it was going for $400, I believe.The paint is decent... RPS Premium is a good balance between budget and tournament-quality paint, I believe. It is medium-bore, so it should fit most barrels and any chamber.

[rayzoredge 2]

I answered my own questions a while back, but just to educate the curious:

 

1. Delrin bolts will swell if ordinary gun oils are used on it. I have not had any binding issues with the bolt yet, but it is always a good idea to lubricate any moving parts regardless, especially the O-rings to prevent them from drying up and being sheared away. I use Shocker Lube to lubricate my bolt, and just one tube of the pink stuff will last you a lifetime. Really.

 

2. The reason why the 'Cocker would lock up the way it did was because sometimes if you short-stroke the marker (not fully pulling the trigger for each shot, thus causing a double feed and a guaranteed ball chop), the resulting ball chopping may place a shell piece into the bolt area and somehow wedge itself in between the body of the marker and the bolt. How this happens, I have no idea, since there's not much of a tolerance for room, but it happens. The only thing you can do for this is to *BLEEP* the marker, run a squeegee through it, and play on. (So don't be too worried if this happens to you.)

 

3. Bad paint is one factor, but proper timing of the marker is another. Make sure that the front of the bolt completely clears the feed neck when you *BLEEP* the marker... you should be able to fit your finger in there and feel the face of the bolt without running into the top of it with the tip of your finger. Look up cocker timing to figure out how to do this.

 

4. I still have no idea why my gun does this, as it is fairly used and the marker is still inconsistent. Any clues?

 

P.S. Hehe... Xisto filters a word that's kind of relevant and important. Replace *BLEEP* with c-o-c-k.

Edited June 30, 2008 by rayzoredge (see edit history)