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faulty.lee

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    faulty.lee got a reaction from XRumerTest in Diy Fan Controller Creative Custom cooling control solution   
    You can simply put a variable resistor inline just like that, it's not efficient, it it might just burn out the variable resister when you turn it to the mid range. An off the shelf speed controller are normally using PWM(Pulse Width Modulation). It's much more efficient. When you use a variable resistor inline, you're actually absorbing port of the power and waste it at the variable resister. If the fan is 2 Watt, when you turn to the mid range, it's when most power is dissipated through the variable resistor, that's 1W. It might be small, but most variable resistor can't withstand that much of power transfer.

    Also, the speed control using variable resistor is not linear, assuming you use a high wattage one, or using rheostat. Meaning when you turn to 10%, it's not running at 10% of the fullspeed. Another issue is that, it might not be able to start the fan at 10% or so set point. You might have to turn to 30% or more depending on the type fan you're using and it's current consumption. Then turn down to achieve slower speed. With that you'll also risk having the fan stall and stop moving, and your system heated up.

    Another thing is, if you use the built in fan speed monitor on the motherboard, you'll have to set the fan speed alarm everytime you change your fan speed, or you're only left with the option of the lowest, which is 1000rpm, normally. That also reduce your chance of detecting if the fan is dying or not. Image if you're fan is built for 4000rpm, and you can set the alarm at 3000rpm. If it hit the alarm, you know that your fan is full of dust and not running well, or it's dying.
  2. Upvote
    faulty.lee got a reaction from XRumerTest in Make You Mobile Harddisk Cooler | Extend It's Life How to make you mobile harddisk runs cooler than before without needin   
    Hi,
     
    I'm going to show you a way to help makes your external harddisk runs cooler and thus extends it's life. I've been using this method for quite a while. Very good indeed. This method doesn't open up your harddisk itself, so warranty for your harddisk is untouch. As for those external harddisk which is bought as one whole unit, then you'll have to check and see if you can disassemble it without voiding it's warranty.
     
    Warning: This tutorial is for those who is skilled enough to assemble their own external harddisk. Please to not attempt if you never did one, or at least get someone skillful to help you. Do this at your own risk.
     
    The idea is to have some tin/aluminum foil in between the harddisk and the casing to help conduct the heat better, and dissipate via the casing. Tin/aluminum is a much better heat conductor comparing to air.
     
    Note: This method is only applicable to 2.5" harddisk with metal casing, and those external casing with small room in between the harddisk and casing. Preferably less than 5 mm. I never tried on a 3.5" harddisk, it might works, but less effective.
     
    Note: This is my first tutorial, and my English isn't very good. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
     
    Ingredient:
    1. Tin/aluminum foil - those used for food wrapping. Soft, easily foldable
    2. Anti static bag - from used packaging of your harddisk, motherboard or any other computer parts. They usually come with anti static bag which are normally semi transparent, dark silver and a bit shiny
    3. Cellophane Tape - any type will do, and you won't need much
     
    Tools:
    1. Screw driver - to disassemble and then assemble back your hard disk casing.
     
    Steps:
    Warning: Beware of electrostatic discharge. It can kill your harddisk upon contact.
    1. Disassemble you external harddisk casing, then takeout the harddisk. Depend on the type of casing you use, most will have a small piece of circuit board connected to the harddisk via the normal PATA/SATA connector. For PATA(wide one), you can keep the circuit board connected, unless you feel uncomfortable while working on it.
     
    2. Cut the anti static bag into a rectangle piece slightly wider than your harddisk, about 5mm to 1cm per side. Then place and center it on the harddisk's side with circuit board, then use the cellophane tape to hold it in place. Try to avoid sticking the cellophane tape one any one of those stickers you find on the harddisk. This is in case if you decide to peel it off later, it will not damage those sticks thus voiding the warranty. Make sure that the anti static bag fully cover the circuit side of your harddisk. This is to avoid short circuit due to contact with the foil later
     
    3. Cut the tin/aluminum foil in long strips as wide OR as long as your harddisk. Then fold the foil into the size of your harddisk, preferably slightly smaller than the anti static bag, to prevent short circuit. You'll have to fold it evenly. Check the thickness to see if it can fit in between the spacing. If it's too thick, you might have to make less fold. Try not to be greedy on this one. You're not suppose to apply pressure on the surface of the harddisk, as this will actually damage it, unlike CPU or GPU heatsink. Make another folded foil for the top of the harddisk.
     
    4. Now sandwich your harddisk between the 2 piece of folded tin/aluminum foil, use a bit of cellophane tape to hold the foil. Only stick on the side. Sticking on the top or bottom of the foil will defeat the whole idea.
     
    5. Assemble your harddisk back into the casing. While doing so, check that the foil didn't move from it's origianal place.
     
    Voila, you're good to go.
     
    Note: If the demand for this article is good, I'll try to get some picture of what i've done.
     
    Good Luck
    Faulty
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